Probably could have used one more day there after discovering the Bonny Doon Cellar Door Café last night – WOW! The space is gorgeous - a rehabbed cannery – industrial and warm at the same time – lots of wood – great art – zeppelin-shaped tables (their logo) and colorful fiesta ware.
Amazingly clean and gorgeous food, by the inimitable Charlie Parker. Things I had never eaten before – Fried Pedron Peppers with Chevre; Pizza with Pate and Shitakes - yep -"pate" - Halibut with blackberries and pistachios, veal cheeks with a fresh corn succotash – all in the comfort of Sonia and Stella’s home. Elevates “take out” to a whole new level!
After spending the morning with Betsy, Terre and Jesse, I packed the car, waved good-bye and headed south after a quick trip into town. Another reason to stay one more day… Lots of cool art, street musicians, sculpture, etc. (See the separate post on Santa Cruz.)
BIG SUR
As I drove south I could actually smell the crops that were growing - artichokes (10/$1), strawberries, sea air (salt) and grapes – similar to my drive through upper NY State. SO GREAT, life affirming and rejuvenating, in a weird sort of way. First stop – a nature preserve - jelly fish, washed up seals (SO SAD) and a parking ticket ($64 bucks – never saw the sign!) I was really looking forward to today – I had missed Big Sur on the way north – did it in the dark. NOTHING could have prepared me. I wish I could have taken you with me and hope that you will consider adding this route to your future travel plans. It really deserves to be shared with a friend or loved one – someone who can confirm that you aren’t dreaming as you look at the scenery.
I was speechless. Ocean on the right, mountains on the left – colors that can’t be explained and each view is better than the last as you cut through the mountainous terrain! I HAD to share it with someone and Joe Hoey was the lucky recipient – thank goodness he answered the phone!
DINING AL FRESCO
Both Betsy and my Uncle had mentioned Nepenthe in Big Sur. GPS told me I had missed it, so I despite my memory I went back and forth for a total of 12 miles until… I found it and am soooo glad I did. The view is outstanding; the food exceptional – caprese salad with heirloom tomatoes, a ground sirloin burger w/ cheddar on a soft French bread roll and good fries (was wishing for truffle salt, tho’) – accompanied by Greg’s Lucia Pinot Noir (only one – I was incredibly controlled). They were in the midst of setting for dinner and I imagine the place takes on a magical air in the candlelight with the roar of the ocean below.
Next time: Dinner and a room nearby. Thanks, too, to Tracy, Lucia and all of the staff for making me feel so welcome (and like a local – always my test!) Please note: This was a splurge – a $50 lunch w/ gratuity. You can go for just apps and/or coffee or a glass of wine, if you’re trying to stay on a budget. The view is NOT to be missed. I did take a quick look in the shop. Nice gifts if you are in the market.
So it’s 5:15pm, I’ve been driving (and stopping) since 1pm and still have 2+ hours to go before I get to Cambria.
I have decided that stopping every 10-15 minutes to take pictures isn’t really going to work anymore if I ever want to "get there" so I barrel through – enjoying the scenery and singing all the way (thanks to Bonnie Raitt, James Taylor, Black Eyed Peas, the Puppini Sisters and Michaell Jackson – among others.) I’m trying to make it to the Elephant Seals at Half Moon Bay. Also want to make it to Cambria – which a) is on the ocean and b) seems like a sweet town/village to bed down in. But then a COW appears!
THE COW
So most of us know that I live adjacent to 100 acres and have had to occasionally deal with cows. Here I am – in northern California, driving south, along the ocean, with a pretty big ranch on my left, when I see a cow tangled in the barbed wire fence!
Of course, I pull over – because if he/she gets loose, she could be hamburger on US 1! So I park the car on the ocean (West) side of the road – cross and walk north to the small herd of cows (Meat, not Dairy, I think) As I cross the freeway, I think “what am I doing?”- but then I know that I am saving a bovine friend, so I carry on. I get closer to the damsel/master in distress, I yell “He-yah! He-Yah!” (where did I learn that???) and it listens, untangles itself and heads back towards the herd – such as it is.
Then I find the break in the fence line – I think “I have to fix this” (of course) – so I tentatively touch the wire to be sure that it’s not “live” and then proceed to try to tie it together so that they can’t escape until it’s repaired. All of this time – the cows are still – staring at me – and seem to be saying “who IS this woman?, “She’s not the boss of us!” I’m thinking – “better me than a Hummer”.
So now I’m on a mission. Have to find someone to let them know that there’s a break in the fence line. I find out later that this “ranch” goes for about 40 miles north and the likelihood of actually finding a person along my way are slim to none.
I get my bearings and figure out where, exactly the break is and begin driving. One mile. Nothing. 2.5 miles I find a highway emergency box, press zero and ask probably one of the most inane questions ever to the guy who answers “Do you have any idea who owns the ranch across the street from this box?” This semi-urban girl is thinking that I have most certainly reached a local emergency number who could plot the location of the phone I’m using and give me the answer. NOT SO MUCH. (I’ll bet that guy laughed all night!)
Onward I go. Watching for gates, housing, vehicles, anything that might indicate civilization on “the ranch”.
Three miles. Five miles – I stop at Piedra Blanca Rancho – picture fancy wrought iron gate, roses, keypad. I think “Dallas” and that there might be a phone or camera-no luck. So U-turn and off I go - a total of six miles south where I reach a turn off that puts me into the tiniest town I’ve ever seen. (If I went back and looked, it is probably the church, school and housing for local ranch hands.)All I care is that I’ve located a “General Store”, with some folks enjoying a nice cerveza on the deck. I ask if they are locals (yes!) and explain what’s happened. They are amazed that I have bothered to try to take care of this and one woman goes inside to make the call. I am gratified to know that my efforts weren’t in vain and that word is getting to the ranch manager that a repair needs to be made. The best part? I ask them, as I am explaining what happened – “do you know how far north the ranch across route one goes or who owns it?” “Oh”, they say, “ you mean the HEARST RANCH?” How much do I love this????!! Hahahahahaha! I saved a privileged cow. Makes me incredibly happy.
As the sun is setting in the west, I keep an eye out for the Elephant Seals that I saw almost in the dark on the way north. These guys/gals weigh 2-3,000 lbs and are huge and roar like crazy! (I learned later in the evening that I have missed the turn off to Half Moon Bay again - c'est la vie! I end up pulling over just between San Simeon (I did see the Hearst Castle up on the hill and will save it for the next trip) and Cambria to a beach with pelicans, seagulls, plovers and another amazing view. Plover movie to follow if technology complies.
While I usually tend to go beyond my limit when driving and push another hour or so –I decide to stay here - on the water in Cambria - Moonstone Beach to be exact. So I make a few phone calls and check into the Mariner’s Inn - $79/night – no view. Not the Portofino - but close to the ocean and the sweet village of Cambria proper. After checking in and checking email – I head out to dinner.
I decide on the place two doors down, the Sea Chest. It’s jammin’ and, as usual I head to the Bar – which in this case is described to me as the “Oyster Bar”. Again, I say, “not so much.” Copper lined, U shaped bar but directly on the hot line – nice just the same. Food-wise, it’s no Stone House, but I DO meet interesting/conversive people – both locals and out of towners – a rock and roll promoter, former spa owner, (both local) a “guilder” – from DC (how cool is that??!), a pool company owner (swimming – not cue) and a restaurant owner from Bakersfield. Guilder Bill and I closed the place! (at 10:30)
Friday brings 4+ hours of driving south to LA – maybe dinner with Jen DeRosa at Loteria Grill in Hollywood; getting Shana’s car cleaned and finding a place to lay my head before a 7am flight back East.
At midnight – 31 hours before I leave – I continue to wonder WHY I don’t live on this coast? Despite the fire, winds and earthquakes – the weather is amazing, the vistas can’t be beat and the people are much more relaxed and welcoming. Who do we suppose can hire me (and pay for a x-country move)? Can I make a living here? Can I AFFORD to live here? Would EOB visit? Anyone else? I DO like to shake up my life every 10 years or so… and it’s not as far as Tahiti!
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